WOW, I think I’ve managed to get my head around this and dragged myself kicking and screaming into the 21st century!
I’m 2 weeks into my travels and exploration with the goals of learning Spanish and getting in the bazza! I’m getting surf fit and tomorrow i’m off to Nicaragua to stay with a family and begin my journey of understanding the latin language.
What to say about the first two weeks; well, my favourite phrase has been “baby steps”. The first week was spent surfing in and around Tamarindo whilst staying with Trevor and Christina’s gang in the best house I have ever stayed in: Puros Dieces. Everyone was amazing and the views simply stunning whilst we dangled our toes in the infinity pool and sipped G+T’s watching the sun go down. After explaining the rules of ‘Shithead’ to the Americans a day long game ensued, ending in a video that i hope to be able to post once James has done his magic.
I’m now coming to the end of my week long stay with the lovely Chrissy (ex LSC memb) who has currently sold her ticket home to embark on a project to get more women into surfing. She is currently working here, photographing, Reiki’ing, wardening, and as such I have got a good deal. All I’ve really done here is get my travelling groove on, get drunk, slightly mugged, deal with my first round of sunburn, read books surf and sleep, much much needed sleep.
Tomorrow I head to Nicaragua as Costa Rica is burning a hole in my wallet.
Adios
The surfer, LSC bit.
Tamarindo: We mainly surfed Playa Grande which is a large beach that has a punchy quick hollow left and right peak in front of the car park and juice bar. This was often very competitive, however, a short walk down the beach and there were other empty peaks waiting to be ridden, this beach should really only be surfed mid-high tide. We also surfed Guiondes, which was a large expansive beach with waves and rips to match offering quite a lengthy paddle out at low but rewarding with fat powerful waves. I lost my nerve here a good few times! If I came again and wanted to be in the area of Tamarindo I’d certainly look at getting a house/lodge here its idyllic. Avellanas, perhaps made famous by its resident 180lb pig, was a beautiful beach and break offering long, small barrels, rights and lefts though the best peak always had a competitive take of zone. We didn’t surf the river mouth but I wish we had as since I have heard nothing but great things about it despite the crocodiles. (see image at top) also there were amazing coconuts and this ingenious shower…
Santa Terese/Playa Carmen: this is the equivalent of surfing mecca, if a little bit expensive, you get here take one look at the clear water, clean beaches, fat waves at Playa Carmen/Pitchy barreling waves at Santa Terese and you are hooked. SO many people have been here months and aren’t leaving, you WILL get stuck here. (If you are a climber and have ever been to Tonsai in Thailand, it is the ‘same same but different’.) I stayed in the Rio Carmen Hostel ($20/night for a private room with fan), but this is due to change and a quick look on Air bnb and you will find excellent affordable options U$400/month for a 3 bed shack next to the beach. Word of warning do not get drunk and cycle/walk home alone along the beach or main road, you will get mugged by a charming very fluent in English arseholes on a motorbike, luckily I don’t remember much of it, and I ended up giving him $20 and he left me alone.
Sorry for very few photos of surf directly, its difficult to take your camera to the beach prior to a surf.
Oh you have to get up at 0530 to get the best windless conditions but hey you cant do much in the mid day heat except catch up on sleep so who cares. Did I mention that the water is 28 degrees celsius?
