To be settled, is that the goal? Or can you drift with enough focus to enable you to be settled in a different way?
I have been living in Australia for the last 8 months with the question of: “Can I live here?” looming over me. Part of me wishes I had more time to mull the question over but would extra time really of changed my mind?
What a country! I have rarely been outside of a two hour drive of Sydney and I love the place. Thirty minutes outside the centre and you are driving past emerald seas, dusty green gum forests and orange and black swathes of fire ravaged landscapes.
I truly was living the dream in an apartment overlooking the ever changing emerald seas and I was only an hour commute to work. Commute, i’m not sure I can really call it that. I would walk out my door, cross the courtyard, round the corner of the building and be greeted by Manly Beach and the view of Fairy Bower, then I would descend the steps, cut/cast into the cliff, past Queenscliff Rockpool (a 50m seawater lido), across the beach, skate along the famous promenade and jump on a ferry for the 30min ride across one of the most beautiful and iconic harbours in the world.
Once on the return leg I called Christian and the comparison could not have been more stark; me walking across a beach and up a cliff whilst he was on a packed, late, train with rain beating the outside and condensation streaming down the inside of the window. How lucky am I? But still the conversation revolved around what was happening at home. My half brother David has lived in Australia since the early 80’s and said to me that it took him almost ten years to stop calling Britain his ‘home’ and he moved out here with his wife and three children. Is home where you feel most settled or is home where the heart is? My New Zealand taxi driver to the airport this week imparted that; “you don’t choose where to settle, it chooses you.”
Manly and the Northern Beaches are home to more British Expats than I care to imagine, I mean its understandable, why move halfway round the world and not live but the beach? Unfortunately I feel this part of Sydney is spoilt by its surroundings and in talking to a lot of people here it simply doesn’t have the oomph of Europe. The passion behind politics and life driven by culture and quite simply the numbers of people. There is always the natural beauty of the location that seems to allow people to either ignore or gloss over the passion.
Whilst here I have surfed everyday there has been surf not just weekends but before and after work but it still isn’t enough, I need more than just my hobbies to keep me focused.
I have met many people who have moved out here and stayed and it is easy to see why and I ask myself is it all about timing this feeling of being settled. The choices and friends you make and miss all start to lead you somewhere. Part of me feels that the last year I have been drifting which is exactly what a sabbatical is for, but now it is time to get serious, where am I going to live and focus on the next adventure.
I write this after just arriving in Indonesia after enduring a cramped plane with a broken foot. Cars constantly flirt with their horns and blink their disco brake lights at each other surrounded by the unmistakeable smell of heat, frangipane flowers and sweet clove cigarettes. I guess I can drift a little while longer.
Not long left now.
Kinder
LSC Surfy Bit
There are SO many breaks in and around Sydney within a two hour drive. In fact most people rarely drive more than thirty minutes and even then prefer to stay closer to home. This is a bonus because, if, like us, you are used to driving for upwards of four hours – well I guess I rarely drove, bit of a car slut me – a one to two hour drive will be met with crystal, swimming pool like, waters empty line ups and pumping waves plus maybe a few sharks.
A couple of general things about Sydney and its swells. First; you are lucky, very lucky if you get a period of over 10 seconds. This is because almost all of the swells are generated close to shore they simply do not get the fetch like we do across the Atlantic. Second; get good at duck diving, the beaches are, as the name suggests mainly beach breaks and when the swells to hit it can be a punishing paddle out.
The better swells tend to come from the south though they are often preceded by NE swells before and after. Direct southerly swells hit the southern beaches best but put a little east in it and the sheltered corners of the northern beaches begin to look a lot more inviting.
If you surf, you want to live on the northern beaches. Yes, you can live in Bondi and have access to the other four breaks in the area – Bronte being my favourite – be close to the city etc etc but the northern beaches gives you access to twenty or more breaks within about an hours drive. That said I shall stick to my three actually four favourite northern beaches breaks and two day trips that I did, the rest is up to you to find which, lets be honest is dead easy as there are so many guidebooks and web cams available.
Queenscliff aka Queensie
I surfed here more than anywhere else because I lived directly above it and it took me four minutes from my door to the sea and the nice little rip out by the rockpool/lido, but keep you mouth shut as some pretty nasty water comes out here after the rains.
Freshwater aka Freshi
I have a soft spot for this break, whenever I have taken people here they have a ‘shit surf’ but its awesome when working and faces directly south picking up all the swell but remaining sheltered from all but the direct southerly winds. It often comes with a more ‘family’ and chatty vibe without tourists and it is definitely one of the prettiest breaks of the Northern Beaches. I also happen to be a volunteer Lifeguard here!
Long Reef aka Longi
If the southerly swell is in town and there is little to no wind/westerly – here is where it will be pumping up and down the beach. There is a outer reef that works for the longboards at mid tide and a stream that empties into the middle forming a nice bank. A true favourite if we can’t be bothered to drive the extra ten minutes for a much quieter line up at Mona Vale. I broke my foot here.
Avalon
This picks up big southerly and northern swells and has a slab called Little Avalon. It has sand covered rocks tot he south, and centre with eh north end forming nice long rides when the NE swell hits.
When its big this can often be quite sheltered and when its on its truly world class – so much so in fact Kelly Slater has a flat overlooking the break.
The only thing people don’t like about this beach is the sand is ‘a little coarse’ but really – who cares.
Central Coast; Pelican Beach, aka Pelos’
Crystal clear, in fact swing pool quality water will invite you here time and again. I have surfed it when its been pretty heavy and barreling with a demanding paddle out, and when its been 30+ degrees and nice gentle peaks.
Secret breaks galore round here…you just have to know the banks and where the sharks aren’t. I don’t suggest you surf to far into dusk like I did only to be told:”jee ma8T you were out there a while – its a bit shaky round ‘ere”
Royal National Park; Garies Beach, Mid Era
This is truly a beautiful beach in the middle of the National Park. Great little break and if you can be bothered to walk around the corner there is massive potential – you just have to walk.
